Traveling through France

Marseille Harbor

Traveling alone as a woman has its disadvantages – not traveling to certain areas of town and countries entirely, not staying out late, and always having to deal with European men’s less-than-subtle glares.  So when I have the chance to take advantage of the fact that I’m a woman, I’ll take it.

Like when I was taking the train to Marseille.  Because of the snow, my first train was more than an hour late, making me miss my connection.  The conductor announced a connecting train, so I headed there right away, avoiding the check-in counter due to the exponentially growing line.  I struggled between getting on the train (a high-speed TGV train vs. the slow one I would’ve been on) and taking an empty seat, and being a good person by going back to get a new ticket.

I decided to talk to the ticket collectors, one of whom was already waving down the conductor to start revving the engines.  The ticket collector behind him just happened to see me, exasperated and on the verge of tears, and I asked if the ticket I had was good enough; he responded, after some hesitation, sure, come on in, and he placed me in an empty first-class seat.

Or when I was on the TGV to Paris the other day.  I didn’t fill out my train pass correctly – something that would have taken me literally seconds to rectify – and was subject to a 10 € fee.  As the ticket collector explained what I did wrong, I couldn’t help but feel disappointed: I could get a lot of macarons for such a ridiculous charge!  But, in the end, I think I looked so helpless that he said, “Never mind the fee – consider it a Christmas present!”  I’m not proud to play the damsel in distress, but sometimes it works.

Visiting France is such an experience of the senses.

13 sweets and a Charlotte in the center

I spent Christmas with my relatives in the south of France.  The traditional meal we had was amazing: homemade fois gras, fresh bread, marinated chicken with chestnuts, and a platter of soft cheeses.  And, if that wasn’t enough, there was a platter of 13 sweets (to represent the 12 apostles and Jesus), from sugared chestnuts to marzipan-filled dates, candied fruits to calissons – sugar-coated lemon cookies that I mistook for “caleçons” (long-johns).  I’m glad my family has a sense of humor.

Fun jewelry

Going to Paris was a birthday gift to myself, as was window-shopping and getting jewelry in the Saint Germaine neighborhood.  My cousin’s mother-in-law told me of a quotation she came across that suits my journey well: “Les voyages forment la jeunesse” (traveling brings about youth), and the fact that I’m still exploring and learning about a city that I’ve spent a good amount of time in is evidence enough.

Pierre Herme Bakery

I bought, yet again, Pierre Hermé macarons in Paris (I might as well take advantage while I'm here!)  I've had rose-flavored macarons before, but this one was truly the embodiment of a rose, if it’s possible to not only reflect the smell but also its soft, delicate nature.

And chocolate croissants.  My friend Emily told me I have to eat one in Paris, that they’re absolutely delicious.  Sure, I ate one and enjoyed it, but it wasn’t ground-breaking.  Yesterday, I was walking around the 2^nd arrondissement and came across the cutest bakery with yellow and blue tiled walls and a very Parisian façade, and I ordered a chocolate croissant.

I took a bite as I walked away and had to stop to enjoy the moment.  I wasn’t sure what was melting more – the divine mixture of super buttery croissant and dark chocolate in my mouth or my knees.  I went back and got a second, which was no less amazing.  I could think of far worse ways of celebrating my 25^th birthday!